Kyrenia has a way of winning people over on the very first evening. The sun drops behind the castle walls, fishing boats rock gently in the old harbour, and the Five Finger Mountains glow pink above the town. For first-time visitors, this small town on the north coast of Cyprus offers a rare mix of history, beaches, mountain views and easy-going Mediterranean life, all within a short drive.

Most journeys start at Ercan International Airport, about 40 km from Kyrenia, with flights connecting through cities in Turkey. A taxi, airport shuttle or rental car will bring you to town in well under an hour. Hiring a car is the easiest way to explore, but remember that traffic drives on the left. The local currency is the Turkish lira. Euros and pounds are often accepted in tourist areas, but paying in lira usually gives better value, and small notes are handy for buses and village cafes. Plugs are the three-pin British type, so pack an adapter if you need one.

The best introduction to Kyrenia is a slow walk around the horseshoe harbour. Stone warehouses that once stored carob now house cafes and restaurants, and the water is lined with fishing boats and wooden excursion vessels. Come in the morning for coffee and quiet, then return at sunset when the quayside fills with diners. Behind the harbour, the lanes of the old town hide small shops, old churches and family bakeries worth exploring on foot.

Standing at the harbour's edge is Kyrenia Castle, the town's most famous landmark. Rebuilt by the Venetians in the 16th century on much older foundations, it invites you to walk its ramparts, peer into towers and dungeons and take in sweeping views over the sea. Inside, the Shipwreck Museum displays the remains of a Greek merchant ship that sank off Kyrenia more than 2,300 years ago. It is one of the oldest ships ever recovered and seeing it up close is a highlight of any first visit. Allow two to three hours and arrive early in summer to avoid the heat.

A short drive into the hills leads to Bellapais, a pretty village wrapped around a Gothic abbey founded by monks in the late 12th century. The abbey's cloisters, refectory and terrace look out over the coast, and in spring and autumn they host concerts by candlelight. Stay for dinner in one of the village restaurants as the lights of Kyrenia twinkle below.

For the most dramatic views on the north coast, head up to St Hilarion Castle. Perched high on a rocky peak above Kyrenia, it began as a monastery and became a royal stronghold under the Lusignan kings. Its towers and walls seem to grow out of the rock, and local legend says they inspired Walt Disney's fairy-tale castles. The climb to the top is steep, with many uneven steps, but the reward is a panorama across Kyrenia, the sea and, on a clear day, the mountains of Turkey. Wear good shoes and bring water.

After all that history, the coast is ready to help you unwind. Beaches stretch both east and west of Kyrenia, from lively beach clubs to quiet sandy coves. To the east, Alagadi Turtle Beach is a protected stretch where turtles nest in summer, and the coast around Esentepe offers calm bays and fewer crowds. Boat trips leave the harbour daily in the warmer months, stopping at coves for swimming and snorkelling. Walkers can follow sections of the long-distance trail through the Five Finger Mountains, which is especially lovely in spring when wild orchids bloom.

No first visit is complete without a long meze dinner. Plates of dips, salads, grilled hellim and local specialities arrive one after another, often followed by fresh fish from the harbour. Try şeftali kebab, a juicy North Cyprus favourite, and finish with Turkish coffee or a glass of raki.

Three to five days is enough to see the highlights without rushing. Spring and autumn offer the most comfortable weather for sightseeing, while summer is best for beaches and the sea.