Beyond the Beach: Waterfalls, Forest Paths and the Fishing Village

Koh Chang is famous for its sunsets, but the island's heart lies inland. Step away from the shoreline and you find cool jungle, tumbling water and villages that still keep time with the tides.

Into the green

Most of Koh Chang is mountainous rainforest, protected as part of Mu Ko Chang National Park. The island rewards anyone who swaps flip-flops for walking shoes, even for a morning.

Khlong Plu, the island's showpiece

The best-known waterfall is Khlong Plu, around 3.3 km inland from Klong Prao Beach. A short, flat walk of about ten minutes through shaded jungle leads to the falls and a plunge pool that invites a swim. It is an easy outing for families and it is easy to see why it is the island's favourite. Staying at Centara Koh Chang Tropicana Resort, on Klong Prao Beach itself, puts you close to the trailhead, so an early start before the heat is simple.

Than Mayom, a royal retreat

Cross to the quieter east coast for Than Mayom. Its four tiers are set among boulders carved with the monograms of Thai kings who once visited, including Rama V. The scene is calm and a little more secluded. Both waterfalls are at their fullest between May and October, so the green season brings the best show.

Life at the water's edge

Fishing villages still shape the island's rhythm. At Bang Bao, wooden houses stand on stilts above the sea and the pier is lined with seafood restaurants and boats heading to the outer islands. On the east coast, Salak Khok sits around a mangrove bay. Late in the afternoon, when the fishing boats return, you can paddle quietly through the mangroves in a kayak hired from the village.

Planning your day

•    Start early. Mornings are cooler, and the trails are quieter.
•    Carry some cash for the national park gates.
•    Wear shoes with a good grip, and bring a swimsuit for the plunge pool.
•    Choose November to April for calm seas and dry days, or May to October for fuller waterfalls and fewer visitors.

Spend the morning in the jungle, the afternoon at a fishing pier and return to the beach in time for sunset. That is Koh Chang beyond the sand.